Nowhere else in France are brands more dominant than in Champagne, with fruit bought and sold as a commodity, and the big producers calling the shots as they buy in bulk. With these dynamics, growers have little or no incentive for producing lower yields of better quality, or employing labour intensive organic viticulture methods.  Which is why for June, (along with Wimbledon, strawberries and cream) I’m featuring Jacques Selosse Champagne.

Since taking over Champagne Selosse in 1980, Anselme has challenged Champagnes' old definitions for excellence. By harvesting low yields from chemical free vineyards and paying more interest in healthy fruit, Anselme is the man most responsible for changing Champagne for the better. He studied Oenology in Burgundy and it was here he learned how to make highly individual wines from great terriors. Perhaps his most important insight was that to make great Champagne, you must start with a good base wine. Anselme's work in the vineyard and his embracing of the relationship between healthy soils and quality of fruit produced is reflected in the quality of the base wine produced. He is also blessed with Grand Cru vineyards in Aviza, Cramant and Oger. His wines are fermented in wood barrels with extended 'lees' (dead yeast cells) contact and he uses no 'dosage' (added sugar before bottling), if any, believing that his wines with their purity of flavour need no make-up.

The Selosse Champagnes possess extraordinary aromatics and a very fine mousse, which is a result of the density and richness in the fruit. Best enjoyed with food, especially high tea with lashings of clotted cream.