Wine recommendations from the connoisseur

Here we pay homage to Albarino, a grape variety that hails from Galicia in northwest Spain and used to produce white wines.

Now let's face it when we think of Spanish wines its usually Rioja, Tempranillo or Cava; Albarino was almost obscure until the 80's when it was rediscovered and, thanks to modern wine making techniques, started being vinified correctly, resulting in fresher wines. The grape has a tendency to oxidise, losing that freshness in the wine. So it should still be drunk relatively young despite its great acidity, which would normally help a wine's longevity.

The star of Galicia, the Albarino grape hardly grows anywhere else in the world. It's flavours please on multiple levels, lots of citric notes and ripe grapefruit, Kiwi and lime are found. It possesses good sugar levels, balanced by natural acids and minerality. A great food wine, it works extremely well with seafood and like all good wines is a product of its environment. One only has to indulge in the cuisine, a range of shellfish including mussels, clams, oysters and sardines, skate, and mackerel to understand the synergy between the two.

The Bodegas Terras Gauda vineyards are dominated by the influence of the Atlantic Ocean and therefore the region has an Atlantic climate with mild winters, cool-ish summers, elevated rainfall and high humidity. The wines are located in the sub-zone of O Rosal, on terraces above the river Mino that divides Spain from Portugal.

Terras Gauda 'Abadia' £13.45, Stockist Green & Blue wines, East Dulwich (0208 693 9250): this wine made from 100% Albarino is attractive with notes of citrus, grapefruit, mandarin and pineapple. It possesses a delicate freshness and is wonderfully aromatic.

Now I wouldn't expect everyone to make the trip to Dulwich, but still recommend you give this variety a try, quality levels will vary from one producer to the next, it still however makes for excellent summer quaffing and is the perfect accompaniment to seafood and sunshine!


By Guy Harcourt-Wood, Consultant Sommelier, Oenophilia






The wine Guy

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Guy Harcourt-Wood, Sommellier